Case Study 1
Case Study 1
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Case Study 1 was designed to test the suitability of currently non-utilised man-made gemstone materials, and revolved around the identification of industrial waste.
Following a visit to a CVD diamond growing factory, the author, as a jewellery artist, incorporated the waste materials acquired into contemporary pieces of jewellery, through which a review of their properties and the outcomes was conducted.
During the Mary Somerville-funded research visit to Idar-Oberstein, a workshop was organised for nine participants, where waste materials retrieved through an urban mining experience at Effgen were used, enabling participants to incorporate both materials and associated industrial processes in their creation of new work.
Following a visit to a CVD diamond growing factory, the author, as a jewellery artist, incorporated the waste materials acquired into contemporary pieces of jewellery, through which a review of their properties and the outcomes was conducted.
During the Mary Somerville-funded research visit to Idar-Oberstein, a workshop was organised for nine participants, where waste materials retrieved through an urban mining experience at Effgen were used, enabling participants to incorporate both materials and associated industrial processes in their creation of new work.
Carbon Shimmers
Carbon Shimmers
Brilliance
Whilst initially uncertain how to approach the black cloud-like structures that had been removed by laser from the purer diamond cores that later shed their dark colour by faceting, it seemed important to visualise what was now missing from these leftovers. Highlighting the pursuit of the traditional brilliant cut, the structure was positioned around an empty round setting. Framing this separation, this ring speaks of absence and presence. Positioned proudly atop a traditional solitaire ring, the strong graphite structure attracts all the attention, thereby reclaiming its identity and status – as its unusual appearance would have done all along if separation had not been pursued. No longer punished for its appearance and dominant presence, its glints and shimmers provide a playful hint of its structural reality with brutalist honesty. Reminiscent of approaching volcanic rock following eruption, or dark carbon clouds emanating from the chimney of a large industrial factory, the strong shapes paint a picture of the economic context carbon is positioned in today, as humanity’s greatest luxuries and innovations, but simultaneously its greatest shame and threat.
Whilst initially uncertain how to approach the black cloud-like structures that had been removed by laser from the purer diamond cores that later shed their dark colour by faceting, it seemed important to visualise what was now missing from these leftovers. Highlighting the pursuit of the traditional brilliant cut, the structure was positioned around an empty round setting. Framing this separation, this ring speaks of absence and presence. Positioned proudly atop a traditional solitaire ring, the strong graphite structure attracts all the attention, thereby reclaiming its identity and status – as its unusual appearance would have done all along if separation had not been pursued. No longer punished for its appearance and dominant presence, its glints and shimmers provide a playful hint of its structural reality with brutalist honesty. Reminiscent of approaching volcanic rock following eruption, or dark carbon clouds emanating from the chimney of a large industrial factory, the strong shapes paint a picture of the economic context carbon is positioned in today, as humanity’s greatest luxuries and innovations, but simultaneously its greatest shame and threat.
Two-Carat Solitaire
The technology of growing diamonds is an incredible scientific feat. The chosen CVD offcuts were used to create 2-Carat Solitaire rings that have nothing in common with their blindingly brightly faceted counterparts apart from the name the organisation of their carbon molecules carries: ‘diamond’. On display, their shimmering black graphite edges, countless nucleations and intriguing inclusions, were considered undesirable in the pursuit of the clear brilliant cut, but clearly visualised the extreme transformation they had been through. Centring this waste in a traditional solitaire ring format alludes to their materiality and communicates their preciousness whilst aiming to position them in the spotlight they deserve, as remarkable feats of engineering and science. The solitaire ring is however blackened, commenting on the piece’s underdog status in a context of capitalism, where that which is polished and shines brightest attracts the most attention.
The technology of growing diamonds is an incredible scientific feat. The chosen CVD offcuts were used to create 2-Carat Solitaire rings that have nothing in common with their blindingly brightly faceted counterparts apart from the name the organisation of their carbon molecules carries: ‘diamond’. On display, their shimmering black graphite edges, countless nucleations and intriguing inclusions, were considered undesirable in the pursuit of the clear brilliant cut, but clearly visualised the extreme transformation they had been through. Centring this waste in a traditional solitaire ring format alludes to their materiality and communicates their preciousness whilst aiming to position them in the spotlight they deserve, as remarkable feats of engineering and science. The solitaire ring is however blackened, commenting on the piece’s underdog status in a context of capitalism, where that which is polished and shines brightest attracts the most attention.
Universe
“Let’s create diamonds.” This phrase has both captivated and cursed many. As its reality expanded, gaining space and time, its matter emerged. Just as the universe cooled after the Big Bang, forming atoms, stars, and galaxies, so does our reality of lab-grown diamonds settle in, influencing all aspects of modern life—from luxury to technology. After creating a few diamonds, a trace of carbon is left on the machine’s round plate. The black layer surrounding the removed diamonds shows evidence of random nucleations, resembling patterns in the sky. To those blinded by the brilliant cut diamond, the statement surrounding the process employed which resembles that of the universe is just a marketing ploy, as that part which actually bears witness to this process is discarded. However, this plate, here set in a brooch, invites exploration of its tiniest details, bearing witness to its wonder. The hollow spaces where diamonds once were remain empty, like the black holes in the universe, mirroring the societal void created by the brilliant cut diamond.
“Let’s create diamonds.” This phrase has both captivated and cursed many. As its reality expanded, gaining space and time, its matter emerged. Just as the universe cooled after the Big Bang, forming atoms, stars, and galaxies, so does our reality of lab-grown diamonds settle in, influencing all aspects of modern life—from luxury to technology. After creating a few diamonds, a trace of carbon is left on the machine’s round plate. The black layer surrounding the removed diamonds shows evidence of random nucleations, resembling patterns in the sky. To those blinded by the brilliant cut diamond, the statement surrounding the process employed which resembles that of the universe is just a marketing ploy, as that part which actually bears witness to this process is discarded. However, this plate, here set in a brooch, invites exploration of its tiniest details, bearing witness to its wonder. The hollow spaces where diamonds once were remain empty, like the black holes in the universe, mirroring the societal void created by the brilliant cut diamond.
Diamond Bling
Diamond Bling
Bling It Workshop
Diamonds, interesting for their societal status and assigned value, are useful for a range of manufacturing companies, who use the hardest material on the planet to produce a variety of tools serving a range of sectors, including the automotive and medical industries. In these contexts any material that does not, or no longer, meets the quality standards is classed as waste. This waste offers a unique opportunity for urban mining. Following the identification of a range of waste materials in two tooling companies, a workshop was devised in collaboration with Julia Wild from the University of Applied Sciences Trier/ Idar-Oberstein for nine Bachelor students, during which the participants could engage in an urban mining experience and incorporate the waste materials into their work. One of the companies (Effgen Lappaport) offered its electroplating facilities and expertise for use, if participants wished to apply the mined grit to found objects or designed structures.
Photography by Gina Müller. Images used with kind permission of the University of Applied Sciences Trier/Idar-Oberstein.
Diamonds, interesting for their societal status and assigned value, are useful for a range of manufacturing companies, who use the hardest material on the planet to produce a variety of tools serving a range of sectors, including the automotive and medical industries. In these contexts any material that does not, or no longer, meets the quality standards is classed as waste. This waste offers a unique opportunity for urban mining. Following the identification of a range of waste materials in two tooling companies, a workshop was devised in collaboration with Julia Wild from the University of Applied Sciences Trier/ Idar-Oberstein for nine Bachelor students, during which the participants could engage in an urban mining experience and incorporate the waste materials into their work. One of the companies (Effgen Lappaport) offered its electroplating facilities and expertise for use, if participants wished to apply the mined grit to found objects or designed structures.
Photography by Gina Müller. Images used with kind permission of the University of Applied Sciences Trier/Idar-Oberstein.
Following a diffraction activity, in which participants examined their outcomes through a range of lenses, a set of synergies, tensions, commonalities and contradictions were established. These patterns of interference dynamically emerged through the intra-actions of the participants, the objects and the various ideas and perspectives being debated. While this activity was conducted verbally, the diffraction pattern identified, amalgamating findings from both the urban mining experience at the Bring Diamonds factory and the collective’s experience at Effgen Lapport Schleiftechnik, has been recreated here in a schematic.
This Case Study, whilst expanded on in the workshop with nine participants in Germany to include other materials, mainly revolved around the use of waste diamond materials to create jewellery pieces. Diamonds, interesting for their societal status and assigned value, are useful for a range of manufacturing companies, who use this hardest material on the planet to produce a variety of tools serving a range of sectors, including the automotive and medical industries. In these contexts any material that does not, or no longer, meets the quality standards is classed as waste. This waste offers a unique opportunity for urban mining. Where diamonds are grown in the lab to be faceted and incorporated into jewellery, here too interesting waste materials can be mined, which might be an additional venture for suppliers claiming to produce sustainable materials that aligns with their sustainability drive. However, with many diamonds already in circulation, it is questionable why the growth of more diamonds to imitate those already mined is a necessity. Urban mining diamonds from both the tooling industry and, for example, old jewellery pieces would provide a significantly more sustainable alternative. Whilst urban mining as a methodology is not new, and arguably has been practiced with precious materials (particularly in gold recycling) for many years, its application to crystal materials is still limited, yet could provide both sustainability and creativity benefits. As a Neo-alchemist, engagement with, in particular these crystal materials, in the context of the research felt like a response-ability to the global context which requires all of us to take responsibility.
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